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Frequently asked questions

Clear answers to the questions we hear most about buying a home, credit, documents and the closing process. If your situation is different, write to us and we will review it with you.

1. Getting started and pre-approval

1. Is a mortgage broker better than a bank?

A bank only offers its own products and its own rules. As a wholesale broker, we compare several lenders and look for the one that best fits your profile — including Non-QM for self-employed borrowers, investors, or ITIN. That means more options when your case does not fit the traditional box. And even though several lenders may be behind the scenes, you only deal with us.

2. What is the difference between pre-qualification and pre-approval?

Pre-qualification is an initial estimate based on what you tell us. Pre-approval reviews your credit, income, and funds with documents, and gives you a letter that sellers take seriously. It is not a final approval or a loan commitment.

3. Does pre-approval hurt my credit? (soft pull vs. hard pull)

A soft pull does not affect your score and other lenders do not see it as an application. A hard pull is the formal inquiry and can lower your score by a few points temporarily. Before we review your credit, we explain which type of inquiry will be made.

4. What documents do I need to get pre-approved?

Typically: ID, pay stubs or W-2s, tax returns, bank statements, and if you are self-employed, 1099s or business statements. Depending on the program we ask for more or less. We send you the exact list for your case so you do not waste time.

5. How long does a pre-approval letter last?

Usually 30 to 60 days, because your credit and documents need to be recent. If it expires, we update it with you before you make an offer.

6. Do I need my own realtor to buy a home?

It is in your interest. The listing agent works for the seller; your agent looks out for you — negotiating price, repairs or credits, and watching the deadlines. If you do not have an agent, we can recommend someone we trust.

2. Credit and FICO

7. Why is my Credit Karma score different from what the lender sees?

There are many score versions. Apps often show different models (such as VantageScore); for mortgages, specific FICO versions from the three bureaus are used, and usually the middle score is taken. That is why it is common for your app not to match what we see.

8. What goes into my credit score, and how do I raise it?

FICO looks at five things: payment history (the most important), how much you owe and how much of your cards you use, length of credit history, new credit or recent inquiries, and the mix of credit types. Paying on time and keeping balances low helps the most. We give you recommendations based on your report.

9. I have a lot of debt — can I still qualify?

It depends on your DTI: the percentage of your monthly income that goes to debts, including the new housing payment. Many banks and credit unions set internal limits stricter than the program’s. Because we work with several lenders, we review which options exist for your full profile. We review it with your numbers.

10. I have good credit — why can a conventional loan still be denied?

Because conventional approval comes from an automated underwriting system (AUS) that looks at everything together: credit, debts, down payment, reserves, income type, and the property. You can meet the minimum credit score and still not approve if other factors are weak. That is why we run your full profile so you know where you really stand.

11. Why does FHA sometimes approve when conventional does not?

FHA is a government-backed program designed for buyers with more limited credit or down payment. Its automated system can accept profiles with lower scores when the rest of the case is solid, and the MIP offsets that risk. Every case is different and approval is never assured.

12. I had a bankruptcy or foreclosure — when can I buy again?

It depends on the type of event, when it happened, and the program: each one has its own waiting period, and some Non-QM options have shorter periods. Tell us your situation and we will tell you when and how you can qualify again.

3. Income and documents

13. How many years of tax returns do I need to buy a home?

Usually two years, to confirm that your income is stable and likely to continue. Some programs have their own requirements. We tell you what the program that fits you requires.

14. I am self-employed: why do they count my net income, not what I bill?

Because for qualifying, what counts is what you keep after the expenses you claimed. If you claim a lot of expenses to pay less in taxes, your qualifying income also goes down. Some items, like depreciation, get added back. If your tax returns do not reflect what you earn, there are Non-QM programs that use bank statements or a P&L and calculate income differently; they usually ask for a larger down payment and have a different cost than conventional. We compare both paths with your numbers.

15. I changed businesses: why don’t they average the two years of Schedule C?

To average two years, the income normally has to come from the same business or the same line of work. If you changed businesses, it may require more time or a different program; we review it with you.

16. If I switch from 1099 to W-2 (or the other way around), can I still buy a home?

Possibly, but the change affects how your income is documented and calculated, and each program has its own rules. If you are thinking about changing jobs or income type, tell us first so we can review it with your numbers.

17. Do overtime, bonuses, and tips count toward qualifying?

Yes, but with a history. Because they change month to month, you need a history that shows a reliable average and that the income will continue. If it is declining, it may count for less. We tell you how much can be used in your case.

18. Can I buy a home in Florida with an ITIN?

Yes. We have two paths: an ITIN Non-QM loan in your name (requires credit and a larger down payment than conventional) and a program through a tribe-affiliated agency that is not a mortgage in your name. FHA does not offer ITIN loans. We review which option fits your documents and income.

19. Can I buy a home to rent out or invest?

Yes. In addition to traditional loans, there are DSCR programs that qualify based on the property’s rental income instead of your personal income. We review which one fits your investment plan.

4. Down payment, assistance, and costs

20. How much do I need for a down payment?

It depends on the program: some options allow a smaller down payment and others ask for more, such as Non-QM or ITIN. There are also down-payment assistance programs in Florida if you qualify. We show you the options with your numbers, with no obligation.

21. Is there down-payment assistance in Florida (DPA)?

Yes — there are state and county programs for buyers who meet income limits and other requirements. Some are second mortgages that are forgiven or paid back when you sell. We check whether you qualify and which one makes sense to combine with your loan.

22. Can I deposit cash in the bank before buying a home?

Better not without talking to us first. All down-payment and closing funds have to be documented, and cash cannot be traced: a large unexplained deposit may not count or can delay your approval. These are fund-verification and anti-money-laundering rules. Before you move money, write us and we will tell you how to do it right.

23. What are closing costs, and how much do I pay at closing?

They are the costs to close: title, appraisal, government taxes and fees (they vary by state), loan fees, and prepaid items (insurance, escrow, and interest). You receive a Loan Estimate with the details within three business days of your application, and the Closing Disclosure at least three business days before you sign.

24. Can the seller help me with closing costs?

Yes, with a seller credit negotiated in the purchase contract: you ask for it in the offer and it is put in writing. Each program caps how much the seller can contribute, and that cap depends on the program, how the property will be used, and your down payment. Important: the credit cannot exceed your actual closing costs and prepaid items (insurance, escrow, interest); any leftover is not returned to you in cash and cannot be used toward the down payment. We help you figure out how much to ask for with your realtor.

5. Mortgage insurance (PMI and MIP)

25. What is PMI, and why am I charged it on a conventional loan?

PMI (private mortgage insurance) is required on conventional loans when your down payment is less than the program requires to avoid it. It does not protect you — it protects the lender if the loan stops being paid. Thanks to it, you can buy without saving up a large down payment. Its cost depends on your credit and down payment, and in general it can be removed once you build enough equity. We tell you how much would apply in your case.

26. What is FHA MIP, who gets paid, and when?

MIP is the mortgage insurance on FHA loans and is paid to HUD/FHA, the government insurer; it is not an IWM fee or lender profit. It has two parts: (1) the upfront premium (UFMIP), charged at closing and normally financed into the loan — the lender only collects it and remits it to HUD; (2) the annual premium, which you pay each month with your mortgage payment and the servicer sends to HUD. How long it is paid depends on the program and your down payment. Some people later refinance to conventional to remove it, if they qualify. We explain how it applies in your case.

27. Why is my FHA loan amount higher than the price minus my down payment?

Because the FHA upfront mortgage insurance premium (UFMIP) is normally financed — that is, added to the loan. It is not an error or a hidden fee: it is part of the program, and that money goes to HUD. We show you the exact breakdown with your numbers.

6. Contract and closing

28. I already signed a contract — what happens next?

You deposit the earnest money (escrow deposit) and the clocks start: inspection, formal application, appraisal, title, and homeowners insurance. We request updated documents and the underwriter reviews everything through clear to close. You receive your Closing Disclosure at least three business days before closing. In the meantime: do not open new credit, do not change jobs, and do not move money without telling us.

29. How long does it take to close on a home purchase?

Usually 30 to 45 days from the contract, depending on the program, the appraisal, and when documents arrive. Every case is different. To keep it on track, respond promptly to our requests and do not make changes to your credit or your job.

30. How much does homeowners insurance cost in Florida, and do I need it before closing?

Yes — the lender requires insurance (and in some areas flood insurance) before closing. In Florida the cost varies a lot by location, roof age, and property type, so it is worth quoting early. We help you coordinate it so it does not delay your closing.

7. After you buy: taxes, Homestead, and escrow

31. What is escrow, and why does my payment change?

It is an account where a portion of your taxes and homeowners insurance is collected each month so they can be paid on time. Once a year it is reviewed: if taxes or insurance went up, your payment goes up; if they went down, it may go down or you get a refund of the surplus.

32. Why did my property taxes go up in Florida?

Property taxes depend on the value the county assigns to your home and on the millage rates set each year by the county, city, and school district. When you buy, the assessed value is reset to the purchase price, so the seller’s tax bill is almost never what you will pay. It also changes if you gain or lose exemptions such as Homestead. All of that shows up in your escrow, which is why your monthly payment can move.

33. What is Homestead in Florida, who qualifies, and when can I apply?

It is a property-tax exemption for your primary residence in Florida: it lowers the taxable value of your home and limits how much that value can rise each year ("Save Our Homes"). You qualify if you own and live in the home as your permanent residence as of January 1 of the year you are applying for. You file with your county Property Appraiser, which publishes each year’s deadline. If you bought after January 1, you apply for the following year.

8. About IWM

34. Do you serve clients in Spanish, and which states do you work in?

Yes — the entire process can be in Spanish. Today we originate loans in Florida and Texas. Infinity Wholesale Mortgages, NMLS 2420223; Adrian Colin, MLO NMLS 1684240.

At IWM we originate and control your loan and manage the process from start to finish: we are your single point of contact.

Schedule your call with Adrian

or call our main line (813) 513-9835 · adrian@iwmortgages.com

General information only — not a credit offer or loan commitment. Subject to credit approval and program requirements. Infinity Wholesale Mortgages, NMLS 2420223 · Adrian Colin, MLO NMLS 1684240 · Licensed in Florida and Texas. Equal Housing Opportunity.